Long-haired and feathered breeds carry a lot more coat around their feet than short-haired dogs do, and paw fur is one of the first places that hair turns into a problem. Between the toes and around the pads is warm, damp, and constantly rubbed against the ground, making it the perfect spot for loose fur to twist into tangles. Long-haired dog paw grooming deserves a different approach — a little regular attention keeps your dog comfortable underfoot and helps you catch issues early.
Why paw fur mats faster on long-haired and feathered breeds
Breeds with flowing coats or feathering, such as Cocker Spaniels, Shih Tzus, Poodles, and Afghan Hounds, grow far more hair around the feet than a Labrador or Boxer ever will. That extra length means more surface area for mud, grass seeds, and moisture to cling to, and every step grinds loose fur together until it starts to felt into knots. The PDSA notes that long-haired breeds can need brushing daily to stay in good condition, which shows how quickly hair on these dogs can get away from you if left unchecked, especially somewhere as high-friction as the paws.
The fur between the pads is especially prone to matting because it sits in a pocket that stays damp long after the rest of the coat has dried, and it's walked on dozens of times a day — which is why paws often mat faster than a dog's back or sides.
How often to check your dog's paws
A quick paw check two or three times a week is a sensible baseline for most long-haired and feathered breeds, and daily during muddy or wet spells when hair between the pads picks up dirt and grit. Lift each paw, part the fur with your fingers, and feel for small knots before they have a chance to tighten. Catching tangles early, while they're still loose, is what keeps this a five-minute job rather than a trip to the groomer.
A light-maintenance routine for loose fur and early tangles
This routine is only for loose fur and light, early tangles that you can still work through with your fingers. If a knot feels tight or tugs on the skin, stop and skip ahead to the safety section below.
- Settle your dog first. Handle the paw calmly for a few seconds before you begin, so it feels relaxed rather than like a restraint.
- Brush through the feathering. Work from the tip of the hair downward in short strokes, easing out debris or grass seeds before you go near the pads.
- Separate the toes gently. Fan the toes apart to see the fur growing between and around the pads, where mats tend to start.
- Trim only stray, loose fur. Using a precision paw trimmer, tidy the hair overhanging the pads and between the toes, keeping the tool moving and away from the skin.
- Check between the pads. Remove any stones, seeds, or mud balls caught in the fur, since these are common triggers for tangles between grooms.
- Finish with a reward. A treat or a fuss at the end keeps future sessions easy, especially for dogs still getting used to having their paws handled.
For a fuller walkthrough of the tools and technique, our guide to trimming fur between dog paw pads covers the area in more detail, and it's worth reading our guide on introducing a nervous dog to a trimmer first if your dog isn't used to being handled this way.
What causes matting between grooms
Even with a good routine, several everyday things can undo your work between sessions. Wet grass and puddles soak into feathering and dry into stiff clumps, mud binds strands of fur together as it hardens, and dogs who lick or chew at their feet after a walk can twist loose hair into tighter knots. A coat that isn't brushed out fully before it dries is also more likely to tangle. UK weather makes this a near-constant issue for feathered breeds, since paws are rarely dry for long in a climate like the UK's.
Safety: never cut out matting close to the skin
This is the most important thing to take from this article. If a mat is tight, sits close to the skin, or pulls when you gently lift it, do not try to cut it out yourself. The skin underneath an established mat is often already sore or irritated from the pulling, which makes it very easy to nick with scissors or a trimmer, even in careful hands. Once a mat is pulled taut, it's also genuinely difficult to judge how close the blade really is to the skin, because the mat itself hides where the skin sits underneath.
Home paw grooming, including with a trimmer like PawClean Pro™, is only appropriate for loose fur and light, early tangles that separate easily with your fingers. As Blue Cross explains, matted fur is best detangled before it gets worse, and before bathing, since washing over a mat only tightens it. Tight, established mats close to the skin should always be left to a vet or professional groomer, who has the training and tools to remove them safely.
When to book a professional groomer
Book a professional groomer, or speak to your vet, if you notice: a mat that feels tight or won't loosen with gentle finger-combing, matting close to or pulling on the skin, your dog flinching when you touch a particular knot, or matting spread across a wide area rather than one small patch. A groomer has the equipment and experience to judge exactly how close a mat sits to the skin, which makes them the safer choice whenever you're in doubt. Keeping up with light maintenance between appointments, as covered in our guide to paw grooming between grooming appointments, is what keeps most dogs out of that situation.
A cordless precision trimmer such as PawClean Pro™ can make this light, everyday maintenance easier. The kit includes the trimmer, one spare blade, a USB charging cable, and a cleaning brush, and every order comes with a free Fur Remover gift included, so there's nothing extra to add to your basket. Take a look at the PawClean Pro™ paw trimmer for a gentle way to stay on top of loose fur between appointments.
FAQs
How often should I brush a long-haired dog's paws?
Two to three times a week is a reasonable starting point for most feathered and long-haired breeds, increasing to daily in muddy or wet weather when paws pick up more dirt and moisture between grooms.
Can I use a trimmer on matted fur myself?
Only on loose fur and light tangles that separate easily with your fingers. Tight mats close to the skin should never be cut at home; book a vet or professional groomer instead, since it's easy to misjudge how close the skin sits under an established mat.
Why does fur between the paw pads mat so quickly?
The hair between the pads sits in a warm, damp pocket that rarely dries fully, and it's ground together with every step, which makes it one of the fastest areas on a dog's body to tangle.
What's the easiest way to start grooming long-haired dogs at home?
Begin with short, calm sessions focused on the paws, using a brush to work through feathering and a precision trimmer for stray fur only. Going slowly and rewarding your dog helps build a routine that's easy to keep up.
A little regular attention to your dog's paw fur goes a long way toward preventing the kind of tight matting that needs professional help. Keep sessions short, stick to loose fur and early tangles, and when in doubt, let a vet or groomer handle anything more established.
